Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Kumbalangi:The Exhilaration of Chinese Nets, the Gentle Breeze and Backwaters

Joseph Chettan works in construction sites along with his friends during day time and returns home in Kallanchery in Kumbalangi in the evening. Instead of watching TV or simply sitting idle, he goes to the back of his house facing the backwaters where he has a Chinese net. He spends rest of the evening catching fish. The day we went most of his catch was Chemmeen (prawns).

I sat on the raised wooden bench used by him to take rest after lowering the net for a catch, watching him effortlessly move along a narrow coconut wood bridge connecting the land to the fishing net. I dare not venture to take that walk even though my friend Yesudas Kocheri assured the water is not deep. An LED lamp is fixed on the Chinese net frame that is believed to attract fishes to the net. Some nets have a small covered resting place attached for fishermen to seek shelter when there is heavy rain, thunder or lightning.

Joseph Chettan lamented – in the past few days the catch is lower but enough to make fish curry or fry which is a staple diet in this fishing hamlet. Hardly 14 km from the Ernakulam Railway Station, this scenic place has now emerged in the global map as it was declared as the first designated eco- tourism village in India. There are only 108 families in this place and all of them know each other. This place is also popular as the native place of Prof K V Thomas, a former Union Minister.

I cherish the evening I spent with Yesudas Kocheri and his family who were kind enough to offer food and hospitality. All the ethnic dishes were greatly relished by my family and friends group- kappa (Tapioca), chala fish (sardines), appam and chicken curry, rice, salad, mollusc, njandu (crab) - we could get a taste of it all.

Thereafter, I sat on the wooden bench observing Joseph Chettan lift the net and release it again. There were several other fishing nets nearby but only one or two had active people to operate it as catch was quite low. The gentle breeze made us drowsy after a heavy meal and when I listen to Joseph Chettan talk, I was feeling intoxicated without getting drunk.

 
Joseph Chettan relaxing after a catch and very much enjoys what he does every day
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I am 64, I have not spent a day in hospital so far. I have gone to the hospital OP only for consultation for fever or minor ailments,” Joseph proudly said. Good quality marine food, physical work, the gentle breeze and the fresh waters all add up to the fitness of Joseph Chettan. He never makes a change in his routine and never tires from repeatedly catching fish.

As it was quite dark, I was not able to capture some good moments with Joseph chettan but I requested my friend Yesudas Kocheri to take some good snaps of him against the back drop of the Chinese nets and the backwaters.

In my journalistic journey of two decades I have often found it enlightening to talk to farmers, traders, fishermen, planters and so on who are down-to-earth, have no pretensions or snobbishness.
I felt the same with Joseph as he described the life of construction worker in the day and fisherman at night. “Sometime back, I stayed up till 12 am in the night, the chemeen catch was good and I earned Rs 8000 the next day at a market auction.”

A few homestays have come up in Kumbalangi some catering to international tourists while some others were of the economy category. However, for a casual visitor finding food to eat is difficult as homestays only prepare food based on order received the same day or a few days in advance. If you get a fishing rod, don’t forego the opportunity to catch live fish.

The clouds were dark, it wasn’t a full moon day but the gentle breeze gave an unforgettable experience for us. It cooled our hearts and mind with memories that last for ever.
Yesudas told me land prices in Kumbalangi have shot up once it became a global tourist destination. Many families sold their land for a good price and bought houses at a cheaper rate elsewhere. However,as you enter the Kumbalangi Village from the main road, the lanes are narrow and tarred roads have developed pot holes and atmosphere gets quiet as you move into Kallanchery.

  Yesudas Kocheri, whose FB posts attracted me to Kumbalangi 
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It was 10 pm when we were called again for a second round of dinner which we finished off fast – the Kanambu (Mullet) fry was yummy. Karimeen was not available that day.                                                                                                                                                                     
None of us wanted to return and would have slept by the side of the backwaters. Such was the charm of Kallanchery.